The following is an article that I first wrote for “Golf Today Magazine” for their September, 2006 issue. Given time to reflect upon this magnificent adventure, it was almost too much to take in such a short amount of time. Yes, there were people that I would have definitely liked to linger longer with, other accompanying courses to play, or another pint to savor.
People have repeatedly asked me about my favorite or favorite courses. Beyond the sage political answer that they are all like children, you love them all, that really is so true with my experience of the Irish links courses. It is much easier to rank the parkland and inland layouts both in Ireland and America. By whatever measure, I have never experienced a greater depth and variety of superb linksland courses anywhere. While the usual suspects of Royal County Down and Ballybunion – Old usually get first mention on the “Best Course Lists”, I am not so sure. Lahinch with its Mackenzie restoration ranks very high for me, and I loved its blind shots. While Royal Portrush, Waterville, and Portmarnock rightfully receive “championship caliber” praise, the newer European Club is an extraordinary facility and just as friendly as well. Perhaps the real story I came home with was that the courses not normally on the tips of tongues are every bit as good as the five other courses just mentioned. Enniscrone, Carne, Connemura, Dooks, the Island Club, Rosses Point (County Sligo), Baltry (County Louth), Donegal, Cork, the two courses at Ballyliffin and at Rosapenna, Tralee, Royal Dublin, Portsalon, Portstewart, Narin and Portnoo, and Castle Rock are every bit as good and entertaining, and often a better value. And for the recently built Doonbeg, I have heard many mixed reviews. While I can often be as critical as the next golf course connoisseur, I found Doonbeg to be an absolute delight and absent of any criticism on my part. The Montgomerie Course at Carton House is a superb inland links style rendition. Lastly, the Old Head Golf Club is one of the greatest golf experiences anywhere. Candidly the Old Head course, itself, is only average in spots, actually Americanized in style, but the service, the people, and, of course, the views are “All-World”. It was one among many Irish layouts that I wished to tarry so as to extend my round and simply soak in it all. Fortunately, the long Irish sunny evenings allow you to do just that.
And do you notice, I have not even touched upon the inland Irish courses. Well, there is a delicious sampling with wonderful accommodations there also to delight you. More about them later.
Extraordinary Irish Golf By Bob Fagan
Are you looking to sample the perfect golf trip to Ireland? Or perhaps you are seeking to return to the Emerald Isle for a second golfing sojourn? If so, you have come to the right place. Clip and save this article because it is the best one you will find on discovering the right courses to play if you are planning a golf vacation to Ireland. Why you say? It’s not because I am so smart, but rather that I have done my homework and not relied on any second-hand opinions or tourist boards to influence me. Not only will I tell you where to play, but also where to stay, and you won’t be disappointed. Promise!
Having played nearly 2,000 American golf courses and read about courses around the world for over forty years, I secretly knew that my golfing life would not be complete until I journeyed to experience the great Irish links. This summer I got my chance. I played 48 courses all over Ireland that included a list of what amounts to the consensus “Forty Best” in Ireland. In sampling all the greatest courses throughout the land, I uncovered an interesting discovery, one known to few except the Irish themselves. The best and most affordable Irish links courses are situated in the charming seaside villages that dot the North and West coast of Ireland. The group encompasses both Ireland and Northern Ireland (part of the United Kingdom).
Call up most travel agents and golf tour operators and you will quickly be directed to the Southwest region of Ireland. To be sure, the area is beautiful and the courses are special. You will hear the often-repeated names of Ballybunion - Old, Waterville, Doonbeg, Old Head, Tralee, and Killarney among others. They are also expensive and busy with fellow Americans and Europeans lined up waiting to tee off. In other words, they are what we term “tourist traps”. The locals share that one or two American green fees amount to an entire year’s dues for them. Consequently, they are happy to share their courses with the “crazy Americans” who are content to play at any cost. Indeed, these courses are excellent and should be sampled, but if you want to experience some unrivaled mountain beauty and coastal scenery, get away from the crowds, and experience more of what Ireland and its people are really about, take my advice and head north and west.
Ireland is changing and the last ten years have brought enough prosperity to propel its citizenry into the second most affluent in the world, with or without real estate and ahead of the United States. With it the cost of golf for Americans has escalated and can now be expensive as evidenced by the southwest quadrant of the country. To illustrate this, look at the bottom of that southwest market. I played a nine-hole executive course, Spanish Point, at 7:30 p.m. An interesting, but very scruffy course, its putting surfaces were no better than the fairways at some of the other Irish courses. Weeds abounded and bunkers were in various states of disarray. There was no golf shop; one pays at the bar and receives a faintly printed scorecard. Nowhere in America would such a substandard layout or operation with twilight rates fetch more than $15- $18 for nine holes, tops. I had to pay $45.50. Enough said? Where I am going to recommend, the golf value remains high, service excellent, accessibility is easy. Most importantly, the golf courses are simply superb, quietly some of the best links in the entire world! If you enjoy links style golf as I do, you will have the time of your golfing life!
With air flights are now arriving at Belfast with more frequency, it can be the most convenient starting place. On the other hand, I picked Shannon on the West Coast and then drove north. (Conversely, you can also fly into Dublin and drive north and then west.) I started my trip with Lahinch. Located some 45 minutes northwest of the Shannon Airport, Lahinch’s Old Course really qualifies at one of those “Southwest Courses”, but it is so fun and convenient that it is a “must-play” for anyone flying into Ireland here. Lahinch is an old course that was last influenced by Alister Mackenzie and has been lovingly restored to his lines. It offers many blind shots, but with its recent restoration maybe the best old links in Ireland. For lodging, you cannot do better than the 22-room Vaughan Lodge located a par-five away from the clubhouse. It is quietly and tastefully accommodating for all, a perfect way to begin your adventure. (www.vaughanlodge.ie)
Next heading clockwise north around the island, you will encounter spectacular mountains before arriving at the Connemara Championship Links. Mention that name to most any of the Irish golf professionals and you will find a gleam appear in their eye. It is a rather isolated rocky outpost with views of the wild Atlantic, and hosts 27 intriguing holes routed over mildly rolling terrain with none of the dunes associated with many of the links courses. It has been said that wind and rainbows are the specialty of the house here. The nearby Rockglen Hotel is a perfect complement for lodging as it is a charming old country establishment situated in a tranquil lake setting as peaceful as can be, seemingly removed from the elements of the nearby ocean. (www.rockglenhotel.com)
Heading about two and a half hours (driving slow on country roads) further north you will encounter the unspoiled dunes and ancient landscape that composes the Carne Golf Links. Overlooking the testy Atlantic and Blacksod Bay near Belmullet, Carne is along with Connemara maybe the two most remote courses in our selection, but it is a spectacular beauty! This was the legendary course architect Eddy Hackett’s last design, but many feel his best. Personally, it is one of my favorites though it does feature many blind shots. Actually, that feature given the terrain actually endeared the course to me, and it is one that would be at the top of my list to play again. The huge dunes compare to what I would envision the lunar landscape to be, only green; and the vistas of the sunlit bay are so surreally beautiful that I actually paused my round to soak it all in.
Heading east not far is the equally rugged Enniscrone Golf Club. The view from the clubhouse provides no clue for how play moves amongst the gigantic dunes or affords views of one of Ireland’s most beautiful beaches. Here there are fewer blind shots, but the challenge is just as stout. This course became another of my favorites and there is an adjoining 9-hole layout. Regarding lodging, you should definitely seek out the Ceol na Mara Guesthouse. Situated only a quarter of a mile from the course, it is convenient to Carne as well. What’s more is that it is lovingly operated by the Jim O’Regan family. Jim is a knowledgeable golfer and is not only a member of Enniscrone, but was the President in 2005. They make you feel as one of the family. (www.ceol-na-mara.com)
As you move northwards, you will encounter County Sligo Golf Club (also known as Rosses Point) and the Donegal Golf Club (a.k.a. Murvagh). Both feature links land on the more protected inlets with views of the mountains inland. County Sligo is considered by many as a Top Ten Course in Ireland though some also vehemently disagree. That said, it possesses several holes that are listed as some of the best in golf. Nearby Donegal possesses a strong collection too, and plenty of distance to test the long hitters. Conveniently located near both is the very comfortable Sandhouse Inn that sits immediately by the beach and offers excellent food as well. (www.sandhouse.ie)
Proceeding north again, you will encounter the 45-hole Rosapenna Hotel & Golf Links. The Casey family owns and operates this substantial establishment that is conveniently located adjacent to the beach. It features that Old Course that was laid out by Old Tom Morris and revised by none other than Harry Vardon and James Braid who left Morris’ magical greens intact. Eight new holes designed by Pat Ruddy are being incorporated to fit with the original ten for a new setup, as the remaining holes will be converted to a golf academy. The second eighteen is one of the most formidable links in Ireland. Named Sandy Hills, it ventures away from the sea, higher into the dunes, for what I found to be the toughest layout I played. Long rough pinches otherwise ample playing areas and greens are bunkered where run-up shots might ordinarily be planned. Sandy Hills should be reserved for the more accomplished player. Here the nicely appointed Hotel is the recommended place to stay. (www.rosapenna.ie)
Onward again east, you will encounter the unspoiled Portsalon Golf Club. Surrounded by the wide sandy beaches of Lough Swilly and guarded by the Knockalla Mountains to the other side, this uncrowded natural links will immediately endear itself to you. At the risk of sounding repetitious, this became another favorite and immediately garnered favorable agreement when the name was mentioned to anyone else. Here is an uncomplicated and natural layout that will test your skills and excite your senses – a complete golfing pleasure!
Continuing clockwise in an easterly direction, the golf continues to excite with the two courses at Ballyliffin. Both layouts meander through the gentle dunes with views of the ocean just the twist of the head away. The newer Glashedy Links has long been considered the better of the two courses and one of the best tests in Ireland. However, the bunkering of the Old Course has recently been completely renovated by Nick Faldo to elevate it also into the top echelon of links courses. Both courses are now tournament ready and it is beyond me to pick the better of the two. There are several attractive hotels nearby in Ballyliffin, but I chose the Ballyliffin Lodge & Spa and thoroughly enjoyed it. (www.ballyliffinlodge.com)
From Ballyliffin, you can take a ferry across the water and easily reach the final remaining courses in this selection, Castlerock, Portstewart, and the famed and feared Royal Portrush in Northern Ireland. Or another alternative is to stay at the quaintly comfortable, old venerable Bushmills Inn, convenient to the three clubs. Of the three, Castlerock is the “hidden gem” with some holes in the dunes and some inland more reminiscent of the Scottish links with their more muted mounds. Either way, I loved the course and its 9-hole Bann Course is among the more intriguing and audacious in the game, beautifully situated closest to the sea in the rugged dunes. (www.bushmillsinn.com)
If there was a surprise for me, it was Portstewart’s Strand Course. It’s opening hole and front nine, for that matter, are among the best in the British Isles if not in the world. Overall, Portstewart became one of my real favorites in Ireland. You will encounter many thrilling treks as you wind through its gigantic dunes and use every club in the bag. It probably doesn’t have the yardage to test today’s pros, but it is more than enough for any amateur.
Now to test the professionals, you look no further than Royal Portrush’s Dunluce Course, the only Irish course to ever host the British Open as well as six British Senior Opens. All over Ireland, everyone agrees on what a complete test of golf Portrush is, particularly around the greens. As with other great championship layouts, it is not a tricked up test, but rather straightforward. Nearly always considered one of the premier Irish courses, Portrush does typically command a higher green fee. Both Portrush and Portstewart offer some other entertaining adjoining courses as well.
Regularly asked about my favorite course, I was and continue to sincerely be befuddled. These courses as well as most of the other links courses I sampled were like my children. They are all special and different in little ways, but you love each one just as much as the others. As that was a politically sage response, it also mirrored my true feelings. Perhaps my real revelation on this adventure was that courses that I had barely heard of were really the equal or nearly so of the famed ones that get most of the publicity.
There you have it, a dozen different facilities, many with multiple courses, but all world-class links – and that comes directly from someone who has played them all. For you to play them all in one trip would be a rather aggressive undertaking. If you want to pick from several different itineraries, I suggest you contact www.northandwestcoastlinks.com. They offer a terrific brochure that suggests eight different golf tours from the courses I have just reviewed, along with other sights to take in, and more detail on places to stay. For further information on the courses and to reserve tee times and golf packages, please contact them at wclgolf@iol.ie or by calling 011 353 91 868642 or by visiting their website.
Regarding the lodging I recommended, mention that Bob Fagan suggested them. They are all splendid and exceeded my expectations. Combine the golf, the scenery, people, food, and lodging together, and you will create some very special memories without paying a king’s ransom.
For general information, consult www.discoverireland.com. I hear Ireland calling me back!
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